Housebreaking the puppy isn't difficult because his natural instinct is to keep the place where he sleeps and plays clean. The most important factor is to keep him confined to a fairly small area during the training period. You will find it almost impossible to housebreak a puppy, who is given a free run of the house.
Spread papers over the puppy's living area. Then watch him carefully. When you notice him starting to whimper, sniff the ground or run around in agitated little circles, rush him to the place that you want to serve as his "toilet" and hold him there till he does his business.
Keep in mind during the housebreaking process that you can't expect too much from your puppy until he is about 5 months old. Before that, his muscles and digestive system just aren't under his control. However, you can begin outdoor training even while you are paper training the puppy.
Start outdoor training by taking him outdoors first thing in the morning (he should have learned to walk on lead at this point), and walk him back and forth in a small area until he relieves himself. After each meal take him to the same spot. Praise the dog every time you take him outside.
If you want to speed up the outdoor trainings so that you can leave the dog alone in the house with less fear of an accident, keep him confined at night so that he has enough room to move around in his bed, but not enough to get any distance away from it. When he has to go, he'll whine loudly enough to attract your attention. Then take him or let him out. You may have to get up once or twice at night for a few weeks, but then you can be fairly sure that your puppy will behave indoors - although accidents will happen.
Rubbing a puppy's nose in his dirt or whacking him with a paper may make you feel better, but it won't help to train the puppy. A dog nature wants to do the right thing for his master. Your job to show him what you want. If an accident happens, ignore it unless you can catch immediately and then in a firm tone express your displeasure. Take him to the spot he should have used. A puppy has a short memory span. When he uses the right place, be lavish with praise and petting, but first make sure he has finished. Many a puppy has left a trail of water across a floor because someone interrupted him to tell him how well he was doing.
The Useful "SIT" Command: To teach your Pomeranian successfully you should know what your goal is. Some commands and exercises should not be taught until a dog is six months of age. The "sit" command though can be taught when a puppy is three months old. This command is one of the most useful of all exercises, because it allows to control your dog in many situations. To teach your Pom puppy, lay your hand on its neck (your left hand) and gently push down his hindquarters with your right hand. Say "Sit" firmly and loudly. Keep the puppy in a sitting position and keep on saying "sit", but do NOT add any other words! After a moment or two give the puppy a tasty tidbit. Let him go and pat him.
Repeat a lesson twice more, using exactly the same procedure each time, and that is sufficient for the day. If you do it more times, you will only do harm. Repeat the lesseon next day. You must be regular in your instruction or it will be wasted. The tidbit is an integral part of the teaching. An ordinary intelligent puppy will have learned to sit at the word of the command in a few days.
This command is very useful and "puppy safe" because it allows you to avoid the use of force. Force should never be used, if possible.
The "HEEL" Command: Walking at heel both on and off leash is the first exercise to teach a young dog, and one which is the basis of all work. If you have to deal with an dog who learned to pull, you are strongly advised to send it to an experienced trainer, since this is very difficult to cure.
There are two types of "heel": the competition "heel" when you need to keep your dog as close to your knee as possible, and the ordinary "follow" command. If you plan to compete, it seems quite reasonable to use two different terms, otherwise, your Pomeranian will become confused. If you only want the dog to be within control while you are taking an ordinary walk, you can say "back". That means that he is not to dash forward or to leave you. For the class work you must give the "heel" command.
Just remember that ANY exercise should aim at improving your relationship with your Pomeranian and NOT make him bored and miserable. Take the leash in your right hand and, holding it tight, say in a firm tone of voice "Heel". Walk along quickly and at intervals bend down (the dog is at your left side) and pat his shoulder. When you turn to the left, do so quickly. You will find that the dog will turn quickly, because he will want to get out of your way. But when you turn to the right, the dog will slow up. Do NOT give him a jerk on the collar: it will hurt him! Instead, as you turn, draw him closely to your knee and give him a tasty bit which he really likes.
Try to make the lesson a pleasure, not a penance: bend often to pat, encourage your Pom to keep close to your knee, and reward. The "about turn" should also be rewarded: your Pom needs to learn to turn extremely quickly to keep pace with the handler. Three turns each way and three "about turns" will be plenty for one walk, and do NOT give any other orders for the rest of the walk.
If you succeed in teaching your dog to walk smartly and cheerfully at "heel", you should be proud of your accomplishment: the "heel" command is one of the most difficult of exercises!